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Land Rover Series 1 Buyer's Guide |
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Bodywork | Although the bodywork is
aluminium-based you need to check for corrosion wherever the aluminium
is in contact with another metal e.g. where the body bolts onto the chassis,
where wings attached to bulkhead. Check bulkhead (£500+ replacement)
and footwells (commonly well rusted). Check doors for cracks and hinges for wear. Any damage around door striker plate? Inspect the hood and its supports for rot, check the hoodsecuring clips are all there. Rain channels on the A post pillars rust easily. Check also for filler-based repairs. |
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| Chassis | Front chassis legs corrode
but can be replaced. Outriggers may be corroded but can be fabricated or remanufactured ones bought.The cross member behind the gearbox is often corroded. Rear cross member should be inspected for rust. |
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| Electrics | Lights, trafficators(if fitted)
and horn should function. Check physical condition and functioning of
lights carefully. Voltage regulator should not show signs of being overheated. Wiper motors can be weak (can substitute SII units). Dynamo can be upgraded to SII or SIII alternator. |
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| Interior | Check instruments are correct
and working (ammeter should show battery is charging). Maybe cracks in steering wheel. Seatbox may also be cracked. Check condition and originality of upholstery. |
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| Engine & Gearbox |
Listen for tappet noise (maybe wear
in rocker gear or camshaft) |
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| Misc | Steering box
will be worn (can substitute SII or SIII unit but extra mods needed for
80" models).Brake shoes are the same as for SII and SIII upto the
early 1980's. Except for the 80", all models can use the petrol tank from a SII or SIII military vehicle. |