After removing the engine it should first be cleaned like you've never cleaned it before! Use either paraffin or a de-greaser. The idea is to ensure that no dirt enters the engine as you dismantle it. A small stiff paint brush is useful. The dismantling process is most conveniently done with the engine secured at a serviceable height but can also be done on a (clean) floor. All Series Land Rover engines have a flat bottomed sump on which they will sit naturally but if alternative engine supports are not available then safety requires the engine to remain attached to the lifting crane during initial dismantling. As each part is removed. clean it before storing it away temporarily or covering it over.
When the cylinder head and ancillaries have been removed then the engine can be tipped onto its side and the sump and remaining items can be removed. It's good practise to re-fit nuts and bolts loosely into their respective locations once a component has been removed. It may be useful to retain old gaskets as Series Land Rover ones become more difficult to obtain in the future, then you have a template for making your own from suitable gasket material. Don't re-use old gaskets.
A few points are relevant to the removal of particular components:
- remove these first for convenience (where fitted) - fan, water pump, dynamo/alternator, starter motor, oil filter, distributor, carburettor, diesel injection pump, mechanical fuel pump, clutch assembly, flywheel, flywheel housing.
Manifolds - if inlet and exhaust manifolds are removed before the cylinder head then it is easier to lift the cylinder head free (heavy).
Cylinder head - loosen the rocker assembly bolts from the centre outwards and remove the rocker assembly complete with bolts. Keep pushrods in correct sequence as removed. Loosen cylinder head bolts gradually from the centre outwards. If the cylinder head is stuck fast use a piece of wood and a hammer to carefully shock it free. Hitting the cylinder head directly with a hammer will crack it.
Sump - The engine must be laid on its side and the sump must be removed before the timing chain, oil pump, crankshaft and pistons can be removed. The sump must be removed because the crankshaft pulley is tightened to 275Nm and the best way to brace the crankshaft against this kind of turning force is to place a block of wood against a crankshaft lobe and the engine casing. Alternative method is to jam something in the flywheel teeth through the starter motor aperture to prevent the flywheel from turning but care must be taken not to damage the ring teeth.
Crankshaft - Once the crankshaft pulley has been removed then the main bearings, con rod bearings, crankshaft, pistons and rods can be removed. Be sure to keep the two central semi-circular thrust washers with the correct main bearing housing. Pistons are removed through the TOP of their bores.
after removing the tappet slides and rollers, the camshaft thrust plate is removed and the camshaft pulled out. Be careful not to damage the camshaft bearings in the process.